Buenos Dias !

Three years ago if someone had suggested investing in Panama I would have laughed and thought they were crazy. Like most people I knew little of Panama. To the best of my memory it was a small country, somewhere in Central America, with a canal for shipping and I recalled talk of a dictator roaming about. A wake up call followed by some internet research changed my life and my knowledge of Panama forever. 

My journey began as I prepared my apprehensive family for a different kind of vacation. We removed our jewellery, left our "nice" clothes behind, donned our backpacks and boarded a plane in Toronto. Less than 5 hours later we landed in Panama. Something had to be wrong! There was no stop-over and the time was the same. How could this world away be less than 5 hours, non-stop from Toronto and in the same time zone?

After arriving at the international airport in Tocumen we drove along the modern toll highway (Corredor Sur - the south run)  into the city. Reaching the point where the highway is built out over the ocean, I looked to my right and noticed the ruins of Panamá Viejo. On a later trip I arrived at night and enjoyed a special little treat as the site is lit by flood lights and looks quite impressive and beautiful in contrast to the modern condominium towers of Punta Pacifica, directly in front.

Our whirlwind adventure began with a hotel stay, in the heart of Panama City, for just over $50! Close by we noticed all of the night life and modern conveniences of any major city. It really was as modern as Miami, just as we had heard - too bad we left our nice clothes and jewellery behind! And where was this "Third World Country" we had been led to be afraid of? Although the city was busy and the drivers pretty crazy it reminded me of many other older big cities - Montreal, Rome, and Paris. Rich pre-Colombian heritage of native populations stretching back over 12,000 years was still evident in the art and artefacts. Of course the Spanish Colonial period combined with some French influence is most obvious in the architecture. The protective fort walls (circa 1673) still stand along the edges of Casco Viejo - direct translation means 'Old Helmet' which is quite appropriate considering it was a location chosen for it's safety and ease of defence. Prior to Casco Viejo the city was located to the north east. This is 'Panamá la Vieja' although it is commonly referred to as Panamá Viejo. Panamá Viejo was founded in 1519 by the conquistador Pedro Arias de Ávila, better known as Pedrarias. In 1671 the city was sacked and burned to the ground by the notorious Welsh pirate Henry Morgan. There really is little left beyond a few ruins but it is certainly worth a stop or drive by. 

Casco Viejo by contrast is still a small city within the city and we spent a number of hours here during the day and returned again for some great dining at night. It's a mixed bag here and the area is definitely in transition. You find old buildings with peeling paint right next to beautifully restored ones. It is quite reminiscent of New Orleans with narrow streets, cafes, restaurants and even a jazz bar. My favourite sights included: the Church of the Golden Altar (Iglesia de San José); Plaza de la Independencia (this is the plaza where Panama declared it's independence from Columbia in 1903); Plaza de Francia, Plaza Bolívar, the area around the Palacio de las Garzas, and the Flat Arch (Arco Chato). It was lovely walking around and I really felt like I was in Europe when I visited this special place. Although we didn't have any problems at all, Casco Viejo is known not to be the safest part of the city. However, like anywhere I found using common sense kept us out of any trouble. Also, there were plenty of tourism police (policía de turismo) around and that added a touch of comfort.  Returning at night I really felt more comfortable being dropped off in the plazas. A real highlight - if not #1 then certainly close to the top of my list of favourite restaurants, was Manolo Caracol on Avendia Central y calle Tercera. 

Bright and early in the morning we were off to see one of the great Wonders of the Modern World, the Panama Canal. The Miraflores locks, circa 1913, are not far from the city center and always a highlight. These are the first of the canal’s three sets of locks which stand at the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal. They raise and lower ships over 16 metres (54 feet) in two steps. We were told morning was the best time to catch a cruise ship in transit as they like to start early so their passengers get to experience the canal during day light hours.  When we first visited the canal there was just a simple room where you could step inside and view a short film on the history of the canal. Now there is a large new Visitors Center (Centro de Visitantes de Miraflores) which is open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Adult admission is $8. Inside is an impressive display of Panama's history. It's a four-story museum with an observation deck and a theatre that shows documentaries on the canal in English and Spanish. There is a restaurant with a view of the locks and although it came recommended I found it a little pricey compared to other great restaurants in the city. Most people don't even notice the small snack bar on the first floor. You have to go out the other side of the museum on the canal side. The snack bar is a window opening from the building immediately to your left. Be sure to hold onto your entry ticket as there are separate automated entrance turnstiles for the museum and theatre. On the first floor the museum has a history of the canal, beginning with the failed French effort and following through the completion by the United States. The second floor has an ecological exhibit demonstrating the importance of the Panama Canal watershed. It includes displays on the flora and fauna found in the watershed. The third floor explains the operation of the canal and includes a full-scale simulator for ship pilot-training. There's also a large topographical canal map which looks a lot like the one they had in the old theatre room. The fourth floor display is a little sparse and boring for the kids. It has route maps and discusses the importance of the canal and world commerce.

Although we didn't catch it on our first visit on a subsequent trip to the city we hiked our way up Ancon Hill. It rises 654 feet from the bay and for 400 years has been a key geographical reference point in Panama.  The commanding 360-degree view of the city, Casco Viejo, the Pacific Ocean and the entrance to the Panama Canal makes it a great place for taking photos.

A little further drive up the east bank of the canal you will find the Gamboa Rainforest Resort. It's a pretty pricey place to stay and eat. If luxury accommodations and gourmet dining in the rain forest are not in your budget don't despair. You can still plan a day trip to Gamboa and take in it's many ecological tours al la carte. On our first visit we took the aerial canopy tour and checked out the 5 exhibits which showcase local flora and fauna as well as a replica of an Embera Indian village. I have to say we were a little disappointed in the canopy tour. It was pretty cool but it didn't produce any bird or wildlife spotting. Our guide explained that we had come at a time of the year and a time of the day when the wildlife was quiet. Later we learned that one of the best tours was a visit by boat to Monkey Island.

My wife always says, "A trip to Panama City is never complete without a day or two of shopping." We discovered two beautiful modern indoor malls. The Multi-Plaza and Multi-Centro are relatively recent additions to Panama City and boast some of the best shopping in Latin America. The Multi-Centro is located in Paitlla, one of the wealthiest areas of Panama City. It's also billed as the largest shopping mall in Central America. In Multi-Centro you will find a casino, movie theatre, arcade, internet cafe, bookstores, 3 department stores and many more shops. It is also connected with the Radisson Decapolis Hotel. The Multi-Plaza is similar and is connected to the Marriott Courtyard - one of my favourite places to stay in PC. The Multi-Plaza has a similar selection of shops and also has a couple of great restaurants. Paladar serves a wonderful selection of dishes and for those missing home you can check out Tony Romas.

A great place to spend your last night in Panama City or any night for that matter is the Amador Causeway. The night time views back at the city lights are spectacular. Go out a little before sunset so you can stop by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. It's fun to rent a bike and ride the boardwalk. Check out the shops on Isla Naos and after you have worked up an appetite and the sun has set continue out the causeway to Isla Flamenco where you will find the marina and the Flamenco Shopping Plaza. Get a table outside at Alberto's. You can enjoy great food and drink while admiring the mega yachts in the marina with the city skyline behind.

Well it’s time to say goodnight as we have an early flight to Bocas del Toro tomorrow. Ciao!

Watch your inbox for my next "Letter from Panama" and discover everything we learned during our two year stay.

COMING SOON! Watch for future announcements about my BLOG where you will be able to check out photos of our favourite Panamanian spots and some fun diary out-takes of our adventures throughout the country!

Hasta Luego!

Mark

www.SafelyInvestInPanama.com

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